Posts Tagged ‘sharks’

Surf’s Up

October 6, 2013

Holy shit.

I am going surfing tomorrow.

This was not a planned thing.

Had it been, there would have been plenty of anxious writing going on previous to the decision.

See recent blogs on yoga, which I still have not gotten to that damn studio.

But if what I was just reading on the interwebs about what I need to get comfortable  with being a surfer is any indication, I am going to want to do yoga for the abdominal strength and core work.

Fortunately my abs are actually a bit stronger than they appear–bike riding.

I give the impression of soft and curvy, but there is a lot of hard muscle under that little cushion.

A cushion which will be a little insulating–I am going cold water surfing, NorCal surfing.

“Am I really going surfing tomorrow?” I thought to myself as the my body reacted to a cold shot of water running over my foot as I crouched down to catch a sunset photograph.



I watched the surfers bobbing up and down in the water and marveled at what they were doing.

I have always wanted to learn how.

And tomorrow is the day.

I received a phone call from a friend who happened to be out at the beach before a work shift.

He was calling to see if I was around and yes, I was, a half hour of free time before my afternoon of sit down and heart to heart over a cup of tea with a lady in my kitchen.

He came on over to check out my new pad.

He loved the studio and then crowed about the beautiful waves he had seen down at the beach; saying it was amazing surf and he wished he wasn’t going into work and he was definitely going out tomorrow, and hey!

What am I doing?

Oh snap.

“I’ve got an extra wet suit and a long board,” he said, bright shiny eyes beaming out at me.

“I’m in!” I shouted and hugged him.

I did not even think twice.

It feels really surreal to think that I am actually going to get into a wet suit tomorrow and paddle out into the water.


This is actually going to happen.

I asked my friend years ago, four or five years ago it feels, to teach me how to surf.

I watched old room mates learn about it and become absolutely enthralled and total beach bum surfers overnight.

I debated it back and forth and just never got around to it.

Something always came up.

“Oh, a board will fit right in there perfectly,” my friend gestured to a little free spot in my studio where I was thinking a stand up lamp may go.

I like his suggestion a lot better though.

A surf board!

I am not currently nervous.

I am sure that will change tomorrow, but I am going to do it anyway.

Somehow I don’t think it will be as scary as when I bought a swim suit in Paris at Decathlon and then went swimming for the first time at the pool in my neighborhood.

I bet I actually look kind of sexy in a wet suit.

A wet suit looks like a big giant set of Spanx.


I am a little scared of sharks, but well, whatever.

I ride my bicycle through the street of San Francisco on a daily basis, that land shark, the car, is more of a worry to me than Jaws.

I may change my mind when I am actually in the water with my feet dangling above the dark depths.

And I had no idea what I was going to do with my weekend.


Aside from go down to the beach today at sunset.

The weather today has been that rare thing that San Francisco only gets a tiny bit of–a real summer day.

Heck, I did not leave the house with an extra layer in my messenger bag this afternoon–not something I recommend for beginner San Franciscan residents or visitors.

I knew I was going to be just fine.

There’s a little nip in the air right now, I have the door open to the back yard, listening to the surf underscore the music on my Ipod shuffle, but even this is nothing compared to what I know is coming.

When the weather is like this I can go either way.

Sometimes it can overwhelm me, like I have to do something, go somewhere.

Make it count.

I made it count by eating lunch and dinner al fresco.

By having my friend stop by and see my place and sit and drink bubbly water on the back porch.

Hosting another friend soon after for tea and talk.

Then going for a bike ride into the Inner Sunset for a little while to get myself straight.  And then the round trip bike ride back, a staggeringly beautiful ride home into that golden hour of sun setting in the West.


Color Drop

I sent my friend photos from the beach as he texted me about being excited for tomorrow.

“It’s going to be epic!”

He sounds like a surfer.

Will I start peppering my words with “dudes” instead of profanity?


I will definitely have fodder for my blog tomorrow and certainly something to say about my weekend.

What did you do this weekend?

I learned how to surf!


I am truly excited.

I have my Paris swimsuit, a chamois cloth, sunblock, a water bottle, a towel, hair elastic, a snack, lip balm, and a case of butterflies to bring with me.

And my camera.

I will take some photos.

I won’t haul it out to the surf, but a few shots of before and after, absolutely.

What a wonderful surprise.

I get to learn how to surf!

I am going to learn how to surf!

Ending blog shortly to go dance around my room like a silly person.

Hang ten.

Whatever the hell that means.

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